The Label
The label provides—or should provide—essential information to help consumers make informed choices about purchasing and caring for their garments, as well as important details regarding the product’s safety, quality, and sustainability. In recent years, we have noticed labels becoming longer, also including certifications. But what do all the pieces of information on a label mean? What are certifications?
Elements of a Label
The label consists of several elements:
Size: Specifies the size of the garment (e.g., S, M, L, XL) to help consumers find the correct fit.
Brand and/or Logo: Displays the brand name or the manufacturer’s logo.
UPC Code or Barcode: A unique code used for tracking and retailing the product.
Manufacturer or Distributor Information: Sometimes provides details about the manufacturer, distributor, or customer service contact.
Content of Recycled or Sustainable Fibers: If applicable, may indicate the presence of recycled or sustainable materials in the garment.
Allergen or Hazardous Substance Warnings: If there are allergens or potentially hazardous substances present in the garment, the label may warn the consumer. For example, dyes often contain many dangerous chemicals for both people and the environment, such as solvents and nickel. These substances, along with microplastics, are released during each wash.
How to Read Clothing Labels: Fabrics and Compositions
How do we read the labels of the garments we purchase? How can we understand how a garment is made and its composition?
Composition
Labels are mandatory by law and are a list of “ingredients” provided for each piece of clothing. The labeling and marketing of textile products have been regulated since May 8, 2012, by EU Regulation No. 1007/2011 (which repeals Directives 73/44/EEC, 96/73/EEC, and 2008/121/EC).
The composition indicates the percentage of materials, whether unique or mixed fibers:
100% of a Single Fiber: For example, 100% cotton. If it is organic, the label will include the term “organic,” provided it has the appropriate certification.
Multiple Fibers: For garments made from two or more fibers, percentages must be listed in descending order, from the highest to the lowest.
Blends of Synthetic and Natural or Artificial Fibers: The more a fiber is mixed with others, the less positive it often is. For example, a garment labeled as 55% acrylic, 25% wool, and 20% alpaca means that it is made with more than half synthetic fibers. Additionally, a garment with many fibers mixed in small percentages is harder to recycle. A garment is recyclable if it is made of at least 95% of a single fiber.
Made In
The term “made in” differs from “designed in.” One identifies where a garment is produced, and the other where it is conceived, designed, and developed. The “made in” in underdeveloped countries most of the time suggests that a garment was probably made in conditions of semi-slavery, underpaid and without minimal protection. However, even “Made in Italy” is not a 100% guarantee of ethical production. Unethical production practices can be found even in Italy. To have greater assurance, differentiate between “Made in Italy” and “100% Made in Italy.” The first is based on Article 24 of Reg. 2913/92, while the second is based on Law 166 of 2009, which uses very stringent criteria to classify a product as 100% Made in Italy. The “made in” should have certifications such as REACH, SA8000, and GOTS.
Care Instructions
Care instructions are a series of symbols meant to communicate how to care for clothing items. Paying attention to these instructions is recommended because the better we treat our clothes, the longer they will last, a concept fundamental to a sustainable wardrobe.
Certifications
If the garment is eco-friendly or has obtained certifications, this information can be found on the label. Textile certifications are issued by independent bodies that verify the compliance of products and processes with certain sustainability standards. These standards can cover various aspects, including the use of chemicals, energy efficiency, water resource management, and working conditions.
Certifications help demonstrate the producer’s commitment to quality, sustainability, and social responsibility, contributing to building consumer trust in their products. Laws vary from country to country, especially when it comes to environmental or social aspects. The absence of adequate laws or the lack of enforcement (especially in developing countries) favors the expansion of the textile industry, particularly fast fashion, which brings irreversible consequences for the environment and people.
Textile certifications are a fundamental tool to ensure customers that products, whether finished, semi-finished, or raw, meet quality and sustainability requirements. There are differences between system certifications and product certifications. The most widely recognized international standards related to environmental sustainability are those developed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), classified under the ISO 1400 series. The most recognized standard is ISO 14001, which sets requirements for environmental management systems. ISO 14024 concerns labeling.
Textile certifications are expensive to obtain and maintain. This is because they require rigorous audits, thorough testing, and continuous updates to ensure that products and processes comply with sustainability standards. Consequently, sourcing and raw material production companies, as well as clothing manufacturers, face higher costs to adhere to these certifications. These additional costs are often reflected in the final price of the products, but they represent an important investment to ensure quality, safety, and sustainability in the textile industry.
Types of Certifications
Environmental Certifications
These ensure the use of non-harmful chemicals for the environment, whether during the cultivation of a plant like cotton or during the fabric spinning and all subsequent processing until the finished and marketed product:
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
OEKO-TEX®
Bluesign®
REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals—140 articles, drafted with Greenpeace and valid only in Europe)
ISO 9001 (Quality Management System)
ISO 14001 (Environmental Management System)
Cradle to Cradle Certified
ISO 50001 (Energy Management System)
OEKO-TEX® – Made in Green
EU-Ecolabel
Ecocert
Social Certifications
These ensure compliance with requirements related to working conditions, workers’ rights, human rights, transparency and anti-corruption, and consumer protection:
Equo Garantito
Fairtrade
Fair For Life
Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)
SA8000
ISO 45001 (Occupational Health and Safety Management System)
WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)
Ethic-et
Animal Rights Certifications
These set rules for the protection of the animal world, encouraging fashion companies to renounce the use of animal-derived materials (wool, leather, silk, feathers, fur, etc.) and replace them with cruelty-free materials (without animal violence):
Animal Free Fashion
Fur Free
Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)
PETA
VeganOK
Organic Certifications
These ensure environmentally friendly production and processing processes, improvement of working conditions, promotion of the use of fibers from organic farming, and prohibition of dangerous additives like toxic heavy metals, aromatic solvents, etc.:
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
Organic Content Standard (OCS)
OEKO-TEX® STeP
Naturtextil (more known in Germany)
Recycling Certifications
The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) are the two standards established by Textile Exchange for recycled textiles. The main requirement for GRS certification is that at least 20% of the product comes from pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled materials (reference is ISO 14021). It also requires criteria like traceability, water resource respect and use, waste and scrap management, energy, atmospheric pollutants, and worker rights. It restricts the use of chemical products:
Plastica Seconda Vita (PSV)
Global Recycle Standard (GRS)
ReMade in Italy
Regulations vs. Certifications
It is important to distinguish between regulations and certifications:
Regulations: These are mandatory rules set by governments or international organizations that companies must follow to operate legally. For example, REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) is an EU regulation controlling the chemicals used in products.
Certifications: These are voluntary standards that companies choose to follow to demonstrate their commitment to sustainable practices. These standards are often more stringent than the minimum regulations and cover specific aspects of sustainable production.
Which Certifications Should a Company Have to Demonstrate Sustainability?
To demonstrate a genuine commitment to sustainability, a textile company should aim to obtain recognized certifications like GOTS, Bluesign®, and Fair Trade Certified™ for their supply chain. These certifications ensure that the entire production process, from sourcing raw materials to manufacturing the final product, meets high environmental and social sustainability standards.
Which Certifications Should a Garment Have to Be Considered Sustainable?
A garment can be considered sustainable if it holds certifications such as OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, Cradle to Cradle Certified™, or Global Recycled Standard (GRS). These certifications attest that the product has been made without harmful substances, using recycled or recyclable materials, and following sustainable production practices.
Conclusion
Textile certifications are essential to ensure sustainability in the fashion industry. Choosing certified products and supporting companies that adhere to stringent standards can make a significant difference for the environment and the communities involved in textile production. Certifications provide a guarantee of quality and responsibility, making it easier for consumers to make conscious choices and for companies to demonstrate their commitment to a more sustainable future.
sources
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): global-standard.org
Fair Trade Certified™: fairtradecertified.org
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: oeko-tex.com
Fletcher, K., Grose, L., & Hawley, J. (2012). Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change. Laurence King Publishing.
McNeill, P., & Moore, M. (2015). Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities. Bloomsbury Publishing.
Cradle to Cradle Certified™: c2ccertified.org
Global Recycled Standard (GRS): textileexchange.org